Canoe & Kayak Racing: Wash Riding/ Drafting

Canoe & Kayak Racing: Wash Riding/ Drafting


Recently I came across a post by Bob Putnam, owever of Deep Cove Outdoors in in Deep Cove British Columbia, on the outskirts of Vancouver. The post itself was on the topic of "Wash Riding" in paddlesports racing. Bob, who opertates the largest weekly canoe/ kayak racing series in ALL of North America, the Deep Cove Tuesday Night Race Series, offers up some good insights. See the entire post below, quoted word for word with permission from Bob.

"Any benefit I can get from wash riding I'll take. Sometimes it doesn't seem like much. When we look at drafting it would be great to know which is the most beneficial position? The most obvious spot is directly behind the paddler in front, the stern wash. Just like in bike racing. I read somewhere that you can save 5% by stern wash. If its 5% for paddling I would imagine it to be at least double that for cycling. In paddling the benefit is not from wind resistance reduction as in cycling but from, #1 riding the downhill wave that is formed from the lead boat, and #2 the back eddy that is formed as the lead boat pushes through the water.

The next great place to draft is side wash. Here there is a bit of a side wave that you can get a push from. Who knows which is better?? I usually like to ride side wash. This way you can taunt your host and it's easier to move up as you don't have stern wave to climb up and over. Tactically, I think the side wash is a better position to be in. I like to position myself just behind and to the side of the host paddler. Far enough away so that we are not clashing paddles, unless for some reason you want to intimidate him, she or them.

Now when it comes to clashing paddles or trying to take somebody out, normally nobody wins. Both parties strokes ends up getting messed up or stopping altogether and they slow down, whilst the other people in the group chortle to themselves saying things like,"Suckers" or the like.

Converging Sidewash

Now if you can get two cooperative individuals on either side, you can rider their converging sidewashes. This is pretty sweet and you can get a big push from this. Usually you should lay low and keep your mouth shut so they don't notice. If you start yelling things like, "Sweeeet ride!" or "Oooh Baby I can stop paddling now!!!" Your two hosts may decide to close the gap and squeeze you out.

Triple Wash Ride

If you can get it, a stern wash ride with a side wash ride on either side is the Holy Grail of wash rides. Here you can park your paddle and pull out the newspaper. Not long ago on Surfski.info I was watching the great Rambo video of Clint Robinson in an Aussie Race, and prior to the Fenn Hot Spot Clint looked like he was getting a triple wash ride. The only problem is that you are somewhat boxed in. Some how Clint managed to escape and took the hot spot. In last weeks TNR there was a good pack and I am sure somebody had this spot…it just wasn't me.

Scraping Off

Now if the individual riding your side wash is annoying you or you think they will out-sprint you at the finish you can make it difficult for them and try to "scrape them off". This can be done by paddling close to an object that you can pass by, but will force them to slow down and ride your stern wash. Shallow water, docks, rocks and slower paddlers all make for good obstacles for scraping people off. I heard of one case in a river marathon, where the draftee had a rudder which shed weeds really well and lead the group through weeds. The drafter's rudders collected weeds and they had to slow down. Now there is an un-written, but much discussed rule preventing the lead boat from just slamming the door on somebody who is beside them. Here's my interpretation… Let's say we are rounding a buoy or dock and I have the inside lane and I am riding the sidewash of a single ski. If I am behind the paddler beside me but my bow is between him/her and their bow then they have to give way. If my bow is trailing the paddler, then, (if they are feeling particularly nasty) they can shut the door and scrape me off. But always remember to play nicely and that you may have to have beers with them after the race.

Symbiotic Relationships

So with drafting you can look to nature and see a variety of symbiotic relationships. So for instance, a Mutualistic relationship is where both parties benefit. This is like the little bird that sits on the Hippo and eats all the little bugs. The bird gets a meal and the Hippo is Happy too. This can be likened to a break-away group where both parties are taking turns pulling. This usually works well until it is time to determine who will win between the two.

The other type is called commensalism. This is where the one party benefits but doesn't affect the other. An example is when soldier ants go on a raid and stir up other bugs and insects which following birds then eat. In a kayak race this could be when a single is just hanging on to a double and doesn't get in the way. The single's position is advanced, but they don't slow the double. Kinda like me clinging onto the OC2 at Lake Whatcom Classic and pulling away from Reivers!

Another relationship in nature is the Parasite, This is where the parasite benefits from the host, in some cases killing the host and maybe heading off to find a better host. Tapeworms or the notorious Mountain Pine Beetle. In surf ski racing, I would liken this to somebody who drafts a competitor for the entire race and then out-sprints them in the final 200m, bad form, or in some cases the beneficiary would offer words of encouragement or direction to the host giving them false hope that they could catch up to parasite's competitor. "If you paddle a bit fasterI…………., I mean, we could catch that guy" These words are spoken until the Host cracks and the beneficiary moves onto another host.

Bob "

Waterproof LED, Xenon, and Halogen Lights and Strobes for Sea Kayaking

Waterproof LED, Xenon, and Halogen Lights and Strobes for Sea Kayaking

(this is written from a US Boating Regulations perspective, so please read Canadian Regulations)


The following table lists all the waterproof flashlights, headlamps, and strobe lights that I use for sea kayaking. To the left of each item I've listed where I stow it ... lights won't do you any good unless they are stowed such that you have access to them and can find them in the dark. With the new generation of waterproof halogen/Xenon and LED lights it is possible to fit all but one of the lights you need while on the water on your PFD. All the lights listed here are what I consider kayak waterproof (meaning it holds up under use on the deck of a kayak in breaking seas or in a wet pocket of a pfd). All but two (the PrincetonTec Surge and the Essential Gear 7 LED headlamp) use an O-ring sealed twist-on/off switch which is less prone to being turned on accidentally than any other type of switch and relatively easy for the designers to make highly waterproof. LED lights use less power for the same amount of light, so batteries last about ten times longer than with conventional bulbs. LED lights are also more rugged when dropped and last many times longer before burning out (eliminating the need to carry spare bulbs). Halogen and Xenon bulbs have relatively short lives and drain batteries fast, but they put out many times more light than a conventional lightbulb or LED of the same size running on the same batteries. So halogen/Xenon bulbs still have a place, but LED lights are better for your more frequent needs and for lights that are likely to be left on for long periods.

To be meet your legal requirements for lighting, after sunset kayakers "shall have ready at hand a white light which shall be exhibited in time to prevent collision" (from the Navigation Rules, see COMDTINST M16672.2C wherever government charts are sold). Another words you do not need red and green side lights, just a plain flash light bright enough to be seen from at least a mile is all that is required. Although the law doesn't say this, from a practical viewpoint as a sea kayaker your light(s) better be highly waterproof, and at least one should be attached to your PFD (life jacket) so you would have it even if you loose your kayak. Lights stowed away in a hatch or behind your seat will be of limited use.

Fortunately new technologies in lighting have recently made it easier than ever for kayakers to meet the legal requirements as well as provide lighting for all our other needs at a minimal cost and with very little weight. Many of the new lights are so light, small, and inexpensive, that I now carry several lights on my PFD at all times. That way I can't leave home without them. To meet the legal requirement, I carry a waterproof Xenon light in the bottom of one of the front pockets on my PFD. This light (Pelican Mini Mitylite) is amazingly bright for it's tiny size -- only slightly larger than the one AAA battery that powers it, and it is waterproof to 2000 ft. I recommend the model with a clear housing though; that way if it ever leaks or the battery corrodes you will be able to see moisture inside. As great as this light is, it is not my main light for night paddling. Bright lights such as the Mitylight will kill their batteries in about an hour. Headlamps, even the LED ones, are too bright to leave on when paddling in a group (because they blind your companions), and they only shine in one direction (making you invisible from other directions). So a bright light should only be used when it's intense light is really needed (i.e. when a motorboat heading toward you). My primary light for night paddling, the one I leave on so other kayakers in my group can see me. This light is a relatively dim, waterproof LED light that is designed to shine a full 360 degrees (Essential Gear Guardian). By attaching this light to the top of your hat or the top strap of your headlamp (with Velcro strap or by sewing a piece of webbing on the hat to clip the light to), you make yourself visible to other kayakers in your group without blinding them. This watch sized LED light is visible for 1/4 mile in all directions (e.g. in side view, it's brightest direction is strait-on which I normally have facing up at the sky, but if you point this part of the beam at your compass or chart you will be able to read them at arms length without blinding you as much as most flashlights would), and it is light weight, rugged, and waterproof to 300 ft. It comes complete with two coin sized watch batteries that will run it continuously for 10 - 20 hours. For long trips you might want to bring extra batteries, but the problem would then be where to store them so they are handy enough to change in the dark and yet never get wet? So rather than carrying spare batteries, I simply carry a complete second one of these lights (it only costs $12.50 with batteries included and is so light and tiny, why not have two?) ... that way the spare batteries are already loaded and ready to use. This light also makes a nice all around light to hang inside your tent. One could get by with just the above two lights (one light with an intense, focused beam but short on battery life, the other light with a dim all-around (360 degree) light and 10-20 hour burn time), and they will both fit in a single pocket on the front of a PFD with room left over -- making them ideal as emergency lights to have at all times. However, if I were planning on paddling after dark or knew in advance that there was a good chance we would still be paddling after sunset, I would like to have two additional lights at hand. These other two lights would be a waterproof LED headlamp (for messing with gear etc.) and the brightest light I can reasonably pack (for beach scanning from the water before landing and as a brighter light for collision prevention).

There's a lot of confusion about strobe lights, both in the minds of kayakers as well as the rest of the boating community. In some areas a strobe light is an approved night-time emergency distress signal, in other areas it is not. The definitions and boundaries of these areas (spelled out in the appendices of the above referenced Navigation Rules which most boaters have probably never seen) are often counterintuitive, but even where a strobe is not approved as a distress signal, it will likely attract unwanted attention from others who may be obligated to come help you. And if it turns out you were just using your strobe to show your position in a non-emergency, it will cause ill-will between kayakers and other boaters, waterfront home owners, etc. who spent their time and energy making sure you are okay. Kayakers can not afford to earn a reputation for false alarms. This is true whether the strobe was designed for boating emergencies or one of the colored ones made for bikes and runners. Whether or not you are in an area where a strobe light is an approved distress signal, a waterproof marine strobe light can be a valuable emergency signal, but only use it in an emergency regardless of the type of water you are on.

Although not an absolute necessity, on camping trips it is really handy to have a headlamp (to cook with, to set up your tent, etc.) in addition to your other lights for on the water. If you already own a headlamp that isn't waterproof, you could make due with it if you carry the other lights I recommend for your on the water needs, and keep your headlamp in a drybag and only use it when on shore, but sooner or later everything in a kayak gets wet - even in dry bags. And a headlamp is handy to wear while paddling too, for finding gear in dry bags, fixing things, tying knots, etc. So a waterproof headlamp is a worthwhile investment even if you already have another headlamp. If investing in a new headlamp, there are now waterproof headlamps with LED lights that are bright enough for all your headlamp needs. Some of the early LED headlamps were rather dim, but the latest ones are getting remarkably bright. There are several waterproof LED flashlights and headlamps that are about as bright as conventional lights (lights with non-halogen/Xenon bulbs). Another option is to add a flashlight holding headband to your waterproof LED hand-held flashlight to convert it into a headlamp. There are special headbands made for this purpose.

One other light that would be nice to have (at least one such light in a group) is a really bright waterproof light to use to scope out beaches before landing in the dark, and to warn away persistent motorboats. For these uses, even the brightest lights you could keep handy in a kayak are barely adequate, but there is one such light that comes close to meeting this goal (PrincetonTec Surge, runs on eight AA batteries). Although it is still usable much longer, it looses it's exceptional brightness after about ten minutes of battery use. So save this light for the brief times when you really need its intense power, and carry other lights for the routine chores (partially drained batteries can be used to run your LED lights though). I can accept this light's short battery life, but the thing that I don't like is that, unlike all the other lights I recommend, the Surge has a toggle switch. It is quite easy and common for it to get turned on accidentally while rolling around in your hatch or on deck in the daytime when you may not notice it. Yet it's brightness and compact size can't be beat by any other light I've found, so put a piece of tape over the switch so it won't turn itself on and accidentally drain the batteries.

Paddling and Rolling Instructionals

I highly recommend both of these links.

http://www.schools.ash.org.au/daptohigh/eskimoroll.htm

...and

http://www.kayakpaddling.net/

Canadian Planisphere

Very nice LINK for us amateur sky watchers.

Float Plan

FLOAT PLAN

~~~~~~~~~~
PERSONAL INFORMATION
Name:
Phone:
Email:
Address:
Number of People on board:
Age:
Height:
Weight:
Sex:
Health, Pre-Existing Medical Conditions:
Skill Level:

~~~~~~~~~~~
VESSEL
Type: Kayak
Size:
Make:
Model:
Serial Number:
Hull Colour:
Deck Colour:
Bouyancy: Front and back, hatched bulkheads.

~~~~~~~~~~~
COMMUNICATION EQUIPMENT
VHF: Yes/No
Channels monitored - 16? / WX?
Cellphone: Yes/No
Cellphone number:
Other: ?

~~~~~~~~~~
NAVIGATION EQUIPMENT
Compass: - Yes/No, Types? Locations?
GPS: Yes/No
Charts: Yes/No
Tides and Current Forecasts: Yes/No
Weather Forecasts: Yes/No
Wind Forecasts: Yes/No

~~~~~~~~~~~
SURVIVAL EQUIPMENT
Life Jacket/PFD: Yes/No, Colour?
Bilge Pump: Yes/No
Flares: Yes/No, Type?, Age?
Signaling Mirror: Yes/No
Emergency Shelter: Yes/No, Type?
Smoke Signal: Yes/No
Flashlight: Yes/No
Immersion gear: Yes/No, Type?, Colour? Insulation layers?
Whistle: Yes/No
Spare Paddle: Yes/No
First Aid Kit: Yes/No

other...
Water: Yes/No, Quantity?
Basic Personal Survival Kit (1 night): Yes/No
Personal Medications: Yes/No, Enough for?

~~~~~~~~~~~
VEHICLE
Vehicle Make/Model:
License number:
Year:
Colour:
Parked at:

~~~~~~~~~~~
Itinerary
Route:

Location
Arrive:
Date:
Time:
Depart:
Date:
Time:
Check in Deadline:

Location:
Arrive:
Date:
Time:
Depart:
Date:
Time:
Check in Deadline:

~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
CALL CONTACTS IMMEDIATELY IF DEADLINE MISSED
~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Contact:

Coast Guard, Search and Rescue
Phone Number:

AND

Next of Kin
Name:
Phone Number:
Address:

Paddling a Flooded Sea Kayak

Paddling a Flooded Sea Kayak
By Wayne Horodowich

As an instructor I try to provide experiences that simulate more difficult conditions while still being in a controlled environment. I have found paddling with a flooded kayak a great skill to master for improving your balance and reaction time in your kayak not to mention your bracing skills.

For those who have never paddled a flooded kayak let me explain the dynamics involved. Of course the kayak will be heavier because of the weight of the water. Therefore it will take longer to get it moving. Unlike solid objects you pack in your kayak water will slosh around easily in the boat. The movement of the water will react as you move but not at the same speed. If the water begins to move about in your kayak it will dramatically affect your balance. It is almost like having a mini surf zone in your kayak.

Paddling a flooded kayak is a mostly a matter of balance. Normally you have to react to the forces outside of your kayak. With a flooded kayak you need to react to the external forces and the internal forces. Needless to say you will be relying heavily on braces and supportive strokes. Lets look at a systematic approach I use in my advanced classes.

Be sure you have adequate flotation in your front and rear compartments and you are in calm controlled water when learning this skill.

Before we flood our kayaks there are certain skills we practice first. See the following skills on the USK website: sculling, supportive forward sweep stroke, supportive reverse sweep stroke, extended paddle forward sweep stroke and the low brace moving turn. These above mentioned skills set a nice foundation for you to catch and maintain your balance.

When you are ready, open your spray skirt and flood your cockpit about half full. This is best done near shore or using your partner's kayak for support. For those with a good sculling brace you can edge over and let the water in to the level you want while doing a sculling brace. Keeping your spray skirt attached after the cockpit is flooded is up to you. I like attaching it because it maintains the amount of water for learning consistency.

Once flooded, I like to begin by paddling forward with supportive forward sweep strokes. I want to get the feel of starting from a dead stop. I try to keep upright at first with little if any leaning or edging. I am getting accustomed to the difference in balance just by having water in the cockpit.

Next I want to feel to what degree the moving water in the kayak affects my balance so I will start leaning from side to side while still paddling forward. The supportive sweep stroke is a necessity for this part of the drill. The best way I can describe the sensation is the water action is slower than my leaning action. When I am recovering from the lean the water is still moving to that side. I need to adjust my balance point and my bracing to accommodate the movement of the water inside the kayak. I try to get the water to move as quick as I react but it never does.

When the water gets moving I don't try to fight the movement. I try to find ways to go with it and react to the movement by keeping my torso relaxed. I try to let the kayak move as necessary and search for my balance points. The bracing action of the supportive sweep stoke gives me support if I lose my balance.

As I get accustomed to the moving water I really try to stretch my limits. I will lean as far as my bracing skills allow. I will do this from side to side. Again the goal is to learn how to react to the forces from within the kayak.

If you are asking when am I ever going to be paddling with that much water in my kayak I have your answer. If you find yourself in rough conditions and you perform a paddle float recovery you will have serious water in your kayak. There are times when I have had to paddle to get away from an area before I was able to pump out the water. If you ever try the scramble recovery in rough water then you will be in a kayak with plenty of water in the cockpit and your greatest stability will be when you are moving rather than sitting still.

Rough water on the outside of your kayak will move the water inside your kayak in a more confused manner than you can ever get during this exercise but it is a close simulation.

To get the most realistic effect I have also performed this exercise in reflecting waves in front of a sea wall. Of course I am far enough away from the wall so I am not washed onto the wall. It is a good idea to have a partner around when you practice in these conditions so you have help if you need it.

After you experience the side to side movement you want to experiment with sudden stops and back paddling. Use your supportive reverse sweep stroke for stopping and going backwards. I will first try a slow stop and some easy back paddling.

When I feel comfortable I will try leaning out to each side as I go backwards. I am repeating the above part of the drill but with reverse paddling.

After I feel good about the side to side motion while going forward and backwards I will practice my emergency stop and go drill. I try to accelerate forward from a dead stop as quickly as possible and do a reverse stroke emergency stop. Then I will reverse paddle as quickly as possible and do a forward stroke emergency stop. I repeat the process always trying to get the water in the kayak moving as much as possible. I also like trying emergency turns to see how it affects my balance.

As you would expect I will add more water to my kayak and repeat the process. For those who want even more of a challenge you can partially fill your forward and rear hatches and then your cockpit. It is critical to only partially fill your hatches. Remember the front and rear hatches are your kayak's floatation. Be sure you have the hatch covers secure after you put water in the compartments. This should only be done in controlled calm water near shore. Your goal is to learn how to deal with an unstable kayak not to lose your kayak.

After doing moving drills I practice my stationary bracing skills and even my rolling with water in the kayak. I figure if I can perform my normal skills with a less stable kayak it will be easier for me when the kayak is empty.

After playing with numerous variations of this skill I decided to teach all day with my cockpit half filled with water. The class was a staff training class focusing on advanced skills. I had to really focus on balance control while performing numerous strokes and capsize recovery techniques. If you want even more balance practice combine the swimmer assists with the flooded kayak exercise.

You never know when you may end up in a situation where you cannot get the water out of your kayak due to the conditions or the loss of a pump. Knowing how to react to a flooded kayak before you actually are in the real situation is a good insurance policy. In addition you will see an improvement in your bracing skills and balance.

Sea Kayaking Safety

Mariner Kayaks Owner's Manual on:

SEA KAYAKING SAFETY

Sea Kayaking offers physical exercise from relaxing to strenuous. Its participants seek adventure exploring local waterways or staging expeditions to the most remote areas of the world. It is a sport for a lifetime, with active participants well into their 80's still enjoying the wilderness. Their gear is supported by the water rather than their backs and there is no elevation to gain.

Paddling a sea kayak is easy to learn, perhaps too easy. A novice can easily paddle (blunder) into many situations a more knowledgeable kayaker would avoid that could require expert paddling skills to survive. In skilled hands kayaks are extraordinarily seaworthy craft. Sea kayaking has proven to be a safe form of recreation for those who have taken the time to learn the basic skills and understand the potential hazards. What follows provides information on some skills and equipment necessary for safe paddling. Also included is information on many hazards that might be encountered. It is presented in the hopes that the reader may become a safer participant in this great sport.

The most important factor to safe sea kayaking is having the knowledge and experience to judge the level of potential danger and the ability to accurately compare it to your groups capabilities leaving adequate margin for error.

The most likely fatal accident is due to hypothermia following a capsize and subsequent failure to execute a rescue. Winds and/or rough seas will cause the capsize, the rescue failure will be due to lack of practice, insufficient rescue equipment, inadequate flotation in the kayak, or separation from the kayak or paddles. Most often the victim is paddling alone and carrying no distress signals or an entire group is in trouble making it impossible for the paddlers to take care of each other.

BE PREPARED

You must have skills, knowledge, and equipment adequate for whatever conditions you might encounter.

You need a clear understanding of the potential hazards and you must stay alert for them. This includes knowing the latest weather forecast.
You must practice in advance with safety equipment and rescues.
You should be able to swim and know when not to swim (when the water is under 60 degrees F.)

If capsized on a windy day you must never lose a firm grip on your kayak and paddle. Losing them is frighteningly easy as your kayak can blow away faster than you can swim.

You should have a plan of action (and a back-up plan) worked out in advance for any emergency including capsize and separation from your kayak or separation from your group. A plan will help prevent the panic and feeling of helplessness that can immobilize the unprepared.

You should be wary of goals which may be clouding your judgment. Getting to work on time or preventing your friends from calling the Coast Guard is not worth the risk to life. You should get a comfortable life jacket and wear it whenever you paddle. You must have plenty of secure flotation in both ends of your kayak.

PADDLING IN GROUPS
The paddling ability and judgment of the group members is more important than group size. While many consider three kayakers to be the absolute minimum for anything beyond an easy shore paddle, there is not necessarily safety in numbers. For example, an expert is probably safer alone than with two or three novices involving him or her in their troubles. With each additional member the chance of trouble due to one of the group having difficulties increases. Ultimately YOU are responsible for your own safety so don't blindly follow another paddler’s lead. When you are no longer dependent on others you will be welcomed in a group as an asset rather than seen as a liability. Please don't consider this as permission to paddle alone. Paddling alone is far more dangerous than paddling with a partner. Three is safer yet providing more options with which to meet an emergency. With four paddlers one could stay with a disabled paddler (on shore) and two could go for help. Even though the group was forced to split up each member still has a partner.

Groups larger than three should pick a leader to be responsible for keeping the group together, picking a safe route, and assessing the physical and psychological state of the group members. When inexperienced paddlers are involved the leader should check that they have the necessary gear and proper flotation in their kayak. Before embarking the leader should inform the novices of what they will be expected to do if they are involved in a capsize or other emergency and an explanation of what kind of rescue to expect. If a problem arises this information should serve to give the novices hope to help avoid the panic that could cause an emergency, delay rescue, or endanger others. It will also make the entire group aware of the possibility of trouble and force them to see if they have the skills and equipment necessary to meet an emergency.

While all group members should be consulted concerning important decisions, the leader is charged with making the final decision and making sure all the members know the plan. It is important that all members be included in the decision making process as this is one of the prime learning opportunities for the less experienced. By agreeing on a leader in advance and having discussed the hazards a group can minimize the chances of serious disagreements arising at a time when they could threaten everyone’s safety. Large groups should use the buddy system, linking novices to experts. This helps keep the group together and makes the responsibilities of group members clear-cut. If larger groups are divided into subgroups it is important to distribute the experienced paddlers so a weak group is not formed. Never leave a novice or group of novices by themselves. Some paddlers have paddled for years but only in calm conditions. If there is a chance of rough conditions these paddlers should be considered to be nearly novices.

Be prepared to voice your strong objections to any plan you think would be risky for you or some other member of the group. Novices can easily be led into trouble by those who have forgotten how vulnerable the were as beginners. Conditions can get so bad that the experts will have trouble taking care of themselves. Don't count on them being able to rescue you. If the plan appears to be dangerous if you were on your own insist on a safer course of action. In a group paddlers should follow the lead kayak and not branch out at some angle without first notifying the leaders of their intentions. The lead kayak must be certain it is not leaving anyone behind. A meeting place should be agreed on in advance in case the group is accidentally separated.

KNOW YOUR EQUIPMENT

Check your equipment for damage and wear.

Check that your kayak has flotation, secured both in the bow and stern adequate to float a swamped kayak level and minimize the amount of water that must be removed. Flotation in only one end will allow your kayak to become vertical in the water, Making reentry virtually impossible without the help of a large boat.

Check that your spray deck fits tightly enough on the cockpit rim so as to be resistant to being popped off by a wave dumping into your lap. Shock cord loses its elasticity and stretches with time and use so it may need to be readjusted later. Make sure novices don't use a spraydeck until they can show they know how to remove it.

Practice capsizing and "wet exits" so you know how to remove your spray deck and climb out (if you wear gloves, can you find the grabloop with them on? Underwater with your eyes closed?). Practice alternate spraydeck removal methods in case the primary one is unavailable. Some include: grasping the shock cord in back, reaching down inside through the waist tube and with palm up pushing the straight fingers out to one side, leaning to the side at the hips to create a fold in the fabric to grab, pressing down on the coaming rim and pushing the fabric out to the side to grab with your fingers. Since none of these will always work practice them all and place them in order of likelyhood of success for you and your equipment.

Be careful with your equipment so as not to create a trap with your ropes, loose gear, spray deck, paddle leash (don't use one in breaking surf), PFD's straps, or footbraces (shoelaces and some sandals) that could hold you or your feet and prevent a "wet exit".

Carry repair kits for your kayak and paddle, as well as for yourself (first-aid kit).

IMPROVE YOUR SKILLS
Those who come to sea kayaking by way of river kayaking have an advantage in that whitewater conditions have forced them to develop several reflexive paddle braces. As a result they are not dependent on the inherent stability of the kayak to keep them upright. The high and low brace are the most important physical skills in kayaking. You should work at developing them. The high brace is basically a bracing forward stroke and the low brace is a bracing reverse stroke. Practice in warm shallow water where you won't be afraid to capsize. Throw yourself progressively further and further off balance and use your paddle to recover. Once you’ve gotten the idea, have a friend or two stand at the end(s) of your kayak and purposely try to capsize you. You should be able to remain upright no matter how hard they try.

Also practice a sculling high brace and alternating between a high and low brace to support you while you lean over to one side. When you've practiced this enough you'll find you can slowly lean your body over until your ear is in the water, then slowly bring yourself back upright. If done quickly you can manage it all with a single sweep. Work on your bracing strokes and you may never have to resort to an Eskimo roll.

In order to know what to expect and what to do when faced with a difficult situation, its best to have practiced in a similar situation. With this in mind we suggest you paddle in progressively stronger winds and rougher waves, but in safe locations such as near an easy landing beach towards which the wind will push you should you capsize. You should be dressed for a capsize and have a source of help, shelter, and warmth at hand. Try rough conditions with your kayak loaded with gear as well as empty. Kayaks and paddles can become extremely difficult to handle in severe conditions. This practice will not only improve your paddling skills, but also give you some experience which will improve your judgment.

Another skill you should master is crossing eddylines. Learn to lean your kayak away from the current you are moving into by using a paddle brace downstream for stability. This lean is to counteract the force of the water sliding under your kayak which often causes a capsize to the upstream side. Find a safe place on a river or tidal stream where an obstruction in the current forms an eddy and practice crossing the eddyline both ways. Expect to capsize. Practice with a group containing some experts (for instruction and rescue). Have a source of warmth at hand and wear a wetsuit or drysuit.

We recommend you learn to Eskimo roll your kayak. This skill is potentially more valuable to sea kayakers than river kayakers because the distance to shore can be so much greater. Because capsizes are so rare while sea kayaking the value of learning to roll is not nearly as obvious as it is to a whitewater paddler. You will probably need expert instruction. Contact a club or kayak shop to find classes. Incidentally, it is easier to roll most gear laden sea kayaks than it is to roll an empty river kayak. At least if the gear can’t seriously shift to one side, side support at the seat keeps you from shifting to the side, and adequate knee braces are present. The additional weight acts as ballast and helps finish the roll. Although the motion is slower getting started--it is more like a thigh pull than a hip snap--once the rotating motion is present the momentum can pull you up out of the water like a punching dummy. Please quit using that sorry old "heavy gear laden kayak" excuse I hear so often for not learning to roll. Learn to roll the kayak you will actually be using both with and without a gear load.

Practice other rescues to back up your ability to Eskimo roll. Even the best rescues are marginal if they haven't been practiced. Rescue practice in a pool can be very valuable, but you should understand that a rescue which works in a heated pool with empty kayaks can give one a false sense of security. Wind, waves, cold water and 150 pounds of gear create a far more difficult situation. There is a wide variety of rescue techniques described in kayaking books, and it is nice to be aware of them; however, many work only under ideal conditions. Rescues that require the lifting of one kayak and rocking it over another to empty it of water risk serious damage to many kayaks and become nearly impossible with a gear load.
The best rescues require little or no help and do not require lifting and dumping the kayak. They get you out of the water quickly to minimize your exposure to hypothermia and allow you to aid in the pumping or bailing of your kayak. They should also be simple and easy to execute with a minimum of extra gear if any. The best rescues are still a poor second to Eskimo rolling.

Do not let confidence in the ability to Eskimo roll or perform rescues cause you to place yourself or your companions in a position where you are depending on it. Rolling and rescues are only safety back-ups. If you need to use them it is a sign you have already made a serious error in judgment.
Finally, practice paddling while pretending to cripple yourself or your equipment in some way. Try paddling and bracing using only one blade of your paddle to simulate a broken paddle (and maybe convince yourself to carry a spare). If your kayak has a rudder or skeg, you should learn to control your kayak without it in difficult conditions. Paddling with your kayak one-half full of water will give you an idea of what it might be like during a rescue. It may also help you to practice your paddle brace and teach you the value of carrying a pump and bailing container and having a partner (or a paddle float for the Mariner Self Rescue) to stabilize the kayak while you are pumping or bailing.

USE SAFETY EQUIPMENT
Obviously a day trip along a protected urban shoreline will require much less equipment and skill than a week long journey along an exposed wilderness coastline. You will have to decide what you may need and when you may need it.

Life Jacket
The Coast Guard requires there be an approved PFD (personal flotation device) for each person in a boat. You should wear it because if the wind and waves come up you may find it very difficult if not impossible to put it on while in your kayak. Don't fool yourself into thinking you can put it on if you capsize. You can quickly become separated from your kayak (and PFD) if you capsize in wind and waves. Because a kayak can blow away faster than you can swim many kayakers fasten themselves or their paddle to the kayak with a length of cord or shock cord. If faced with breaking waves any leashes or loose lines should be safely stowed so they can't tie you to your kayak. You should practice "wet exits" while never losing your grip on your kayak and paddle.

Flotation
Maximum flotation in both ends of your kayak is a must. The flotation needs to support the kayak level while you sit in the fully swamped cockpit. It must also provide enough freeboard at the cockpit to minimize further water entry during pumping. The flotation could consist of large airtight float bags, waterproof gear bags, truly watertight bulkheads and hatches, or a waterproof cockpit sock you wear around your legs that seals at the cockpit rim. Prudent paddlers back up bulkheads with float bags (or gear bags) or use bags and sea socks together so the failure of any one system isn't critical.

Bailing device
Lifting and dumping water from a gear laden kayak is virtually impossible from other kayaks, so a means of removing water from the kayak once you’ve gotten yourself up out of the cold water is a must. A high capacity electric, hand held or deck mounted pump is better than a "bailing bucket" because they can be used with the spray skirt closed to further water entry. Slip the hand pump through the top of your spray deck at your chest. A large sponge is nice for the last inch. These items should be readily available but stored securely so they won't float (or sink) away. A hand pump full of water will sink so tether it or add a float collar to it. Consider carrying a back up water removing device such as a bailing container or even second pump.

Towline
Nylon braided line and parachute cord are strong and stretch to absorb shocks, but nylon sinks so needs a float attached. A piece of closed-cell foam can serve as the float as well as a place to wrap the line to keep it from tangling. The tow point should be near the paddler (or attached to a harness worn by the paddler) so the towing kayak maintains maneuverability and the line can be quickly jettisoned. in rough seas forty feet or more of line may be necessary to minimize the danger of the kayaks colliding.

Equipment to help maintain or regain body heat if immersed
These include a wet suit, dry suit, survival suit or coat. Also helpful are your life jacket, rainwear, long underwear and pile clothing. Extra dry clothing, a sleeping bag, tent or shelter, and fire making materials in watertight containers should be carried.

First-Aid Kit
A first aid kit adequate to your situation should be readily available from the cockpit.

Repair Kit
A roll of duct tape (kept dry and with the kayak) can temporarily repair almost any damage to a kayak, paddle (with a splint), or even flotation and gear bags. A more extensive repair kit would include spare fittings and more permanent hull and float bag repair materials.

Emergency Locating devices
Equipment for signaling an emergency and your location should be handy, or better yet carried on your person. Locating devices have saved many kayakers. They include: flares (hand held and aerial), smoke canisters (day only), dye marker (day only), orange distress flag, foghorn or airhorn, signal mirror, strobe light (night only). Many of these items are made quite small, inexpensive, and are available at outdoor equipment or marine supply stores. If you paddle at night, the U.S. Coast Guard requires you to carry a white light. It must be visible for one mile and available to show in time to avoid a collision. When on international waters three flares are required (or a distress beacon that will automatically flash SOS in Morse code). Lakes with a connection to the sea are considered "international waters". On inland waters a high intensity strobe light that flashes 50 to 70 times per minute can replace the SOS signal or the three flares.

A device called the 406 MHz EPIRB (Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon) transmits an emergency signal that SARSAT satellites can home in on to locate your position within a one mile radius. The Category II version is manually deployed so would be best for kayakers. The price has fallen into the $800 range. Class "B" EPIRB's also transmit to satellites but aren’t nearly as accurate and require much longer to get a fix on your approximate position. Far to long for a kayaker in the water. The class "C" EPIRB transmits an emergency signal on the Marine VHF band (channel 16) monitored by coastal ships, fishing boats, pleasure craft, and the U.S. Coast Guard. This signal alternates with a locating signal (on channel 15). Kayakers in trouble on the water have been rescued within 45 minutes using a Class "C" EPIRB. They have a range of up to 30 miles, are waterproof, float and some have a built in strobe light that works at night. Although cheaper they are much less reliable than the 406 EPIRB and will soon be obsolete.

Radio
Handheld VHF radios have a lesser range but the U.S. Coast Guard maintains repeater stations at high points all along the U.S. coast which may vastly increase VHF's useful range. A VHF transmitter/receiver and/or an EPIRB should be strongly considered by anyone traveling in sparsely populated areas. They should be considered essential by commercial tour guides, trip leaders and solo paddlers. A VHF transmitter allows one to contact potential rescuers on the emergency channel (#16) and give a description of the situation. Some channels receive weather stations and others can be used to talk to boats or ships in the area. The range is about one-half that of a class "C" EPIRB. A flexible waterproof case is available for some hand held VHF radios that allow them to be used without exposing them to salt water. Unfortunately, these cases have had a high failure rate, especially at the welded seems. Check its airtightness (and therefore watertightness) by gently squeezing before a trip and anytime it may soon get wet. Some VHF radios are advertised as "waterproof". Even with these limit their exposure to water as much as possible. Maybe some ziplock freezer bags.

At under $25 a simple weather radio can be quite inexpensive. One could be invaluable to warn a paddler of impending bad weather. However, in my experience most don’t have the "range" of the weather channels on a VHF radio. Lower priced VHF radios can be had for under $150. A VHF seems to be the most versatile and cost effective locating device

Spares of Critical Items
Paddles, pumps, charts, tide and current tables, timepieces, and compasses. Many of these spares could be shared among a group, but you would be wise to be the person who brings them. It is a good idea to carry two compasses, but make sure they are far enough apart to not interfere with each other. Use one to navigate and the spare to convince you the first one is correct if you get into thick fog. We use a domed compass attached to the kayak's foredeck for course keeping and a small orienteering compass for plotting a course on the chart and as the spare.



BE AWARE OF THE POTENTIAL HAZARDS

AVOID HYPOTHERMIA (Cooling of the body's core temperature)
In arctic and temperate regions, this is the greatest danger to sea kayakers. In fact, hypothermia is a leading cause of death related to outdoor activities and therefore demands serious study by anyone interested in any form of outdoor recreation.

Paddling in wind and rain or wet rough seas without adequate clothing can lead to hypothermia, but the greatest danger is from total immersion in chilling water as the result of a capsize. It is imperative to get a capsize victim out of the water as soon as possible and then to add clothing and watch closely for signs of hypothermia. The victim may not recognize the symptoms in himself and if hypothermic may even become belligerent towards your concern.

The symptoms of hypothermia: (in order of severity)

Sensation of cold
Shivering and shuddering (core temperature 98 to 91 degrees. Rapid breathing and rapid pulse)
Vague, slurred speech
Memory lapses
Lack of coordination (fumbling hands or erratic paddling and inability to stay on course)
Indifference (even to discomfort)
Blurred vision and drowsiness
Ashen face and hands
Muscle rigidity and loss of manual dexterity replaces shivering (core temperature 93 to 86 degrees. The situation is now extremely critical. Breathing and pulse very slow and shallow
Exhaustion
Incoherence and collapse
Unconsciousness (core temperature about 86 degrees. Chances of survival less than even.)
Death (if not from drowning when unconscious then due to heart failure at a core temperature of approximately 80 degrees)

TREATMENT OF HYPOTHERMIA
Prevent heat loss in the first place. It can take several hours to rewarm a victim of even mild hypothermia. Prevent heat loss by wearing warm dry clothing including a hat, or warm-when-wet clothing such as a wet suit or drysuit. Eat sufficient carbohydrates before and during paddling.

If you capsize and are out of your kayak, try to get out of the water as quickly as possible. The more of your body you can get out the better. Get out of the water first then get the water out of the kayak. Do not remain in cold water while attempting to first empty out the kayak unless conditions are such that this can be done in two minutes maximum (or the water is warm). The more heat you lose the harder it will be to aid in your own rescue and the longer it will take to warm up. Even worse far before your core temperature begins to cool your body will divert the blood from your extremities to your core to slow down the cooling process. On one level this is good but the lack of blood feeding your muscles quickly makes them very weak, perhaps too weak to get yourself out of the water and into your kayak. Do it while you still can.

Decrease your rate of cooling by getting as much of your body out of the water as possible. If you must stay in the water keep relatively still with your head and neck covered and out of the water. Your hands will function longer if you can keep them above water as well. A fetal position is best if you are alone, huddle together if in the water with others. A PFD helps keep your head above water, decreases the need to swim or tread water (which will speed cooling) and provides some insulation for your core. Your rate of heat loss can be doubled by using energy struggling, swimming, or by immersing your head when in 50 degree water (50 degrees is a common sea water temperature from California to Alaska). You probably can't swim one-half mile before being overcome by hypothermia even if you are an excellent swimmer --- for most people the distance is far less. Don't swim for shore in cold water unless it is very close or you have no other hope for rescue. Even if you can’t get back into the kayak you probably can lay over it. That is, if the kayak has enough flotation to support you. Try to straddle the overturned kayak in a prone position, spread your legs for stability and paddle to shore with your hands.
Once back in the kayak a victim who shows any symptoms beyond shivering should be dressed as warmly as possible and then be carried as a passenger or towed in his or her kayak to the nearest place offering shelter and insulation, such as a tent and sleeping bag (or even a large pile of leaves). Someone who is severely hypothermic must be handled gently like a stretcher case to avoid exertion and possible heart failure. Refrain from stimulations such as shaking or rubbing the limbs. Avoid alcohol or hot drinks, which might speed the return of chilled blood from the extremities to the core, dropping the core temperature even further (or cause the victim to choke and cough).

When shelter is obtained, carefully undress the victim (especially wet clothes) so warmth can be applied gently but directly to the head, neck, sides, chest, and groin.. This warmth can be first supplied by other’s warm naked bodies in the sleeping bag and then (if more help is available to heat water) by applying very warm, but not scalding, compresses. Soak articles of clothing in hot water to make compresses. Keep warm compresses confined to the core area and change them often to keep transferring heat to the victims core. If possible prewarm the air the victim breathes. The steam from heating the compresses could also be a source of warm air. These are obviously wilderness treatments, if a hospital is available the victim should be insulated against further heat loss and evacuated immediately. In fact, some experts advocate only insulating the seriously hypothermic victim against further heat loss to stabilize them in order to minimize disturbances that could set off heart problems. Evacuate a seriously hypothermic victim even if they have already rewarmed because electrolyte imbalances that were caused by the hypothermia continue to put the victim at increased risk for heart problems.

KNOW THE WEATHER
Wind is one of the sea kayakers most dangerous adversaries, it can increase in velocity quickly and make control of a kayak and paddle difficult if not impossible. Making headway into very strong winds is a struggle. It is possible you could be blown offshore or blown onshore into dangerous regions, such as big surf or a rocky coast.
In mountainous areas the terrain can deflect and funnel the wind creating strong gusts, downdrafts, and twisters. Also, cold air can build up in the mountains over vast snowfields (or in the cold interior behind a mountain range) on a calm day and be triggered into an avalanche of cold air that spills down the valleys and out a fjord, creating extremely high winds where a few seconds before it was dead calm. Strong winds and gusts are also often associated with rain squalls. When the wind approaches gale force it can snatch a paddle out of your hands or catch a paddle blade squarely from the side and cause a capsize. Unexpected gusts can be much more "upsetting" than a steady wind of equal velocity.

Securely attaching a three foot long shock cord from the middle of your paddle to your kayak at the front of the cockpit will insure that if your paddle gets away it will be easy to retrieve. Eskimo rolling and the Mariner Outrigger Self Rescue are still easily done without untethering the paddle. If you capsize and wet exit, and have this safety line attached, as long as you can hang on to your paddle or your kayak you will still have both. A tether makes it much easier to hang onto the kayak while fastening your paddle float device.

Shock cord stretches to twice its length so only half as much is needed to avoid limiting your range of motion. A longer cord or a curly "telephone" style cord is much more likely to snag, drag, or otherwise interfere with your paddling. Shock cord does not hold knots as well as cord so make sure you test your attachments severely (but carefully so you don’t accidentally snap it into your eyes).

The forces of both the wind and the waves tend to turn and hold long objects such as kayaks into an orientation sideways to the wind and waves. It can be very difficult to fight these forces and turn a kayak into or away from a strong wind. This is especially true if your kayak is empty so that the ends are light and therefore easily blown around. Another factor is the amount and location of windage and weight. How hard a kayak is to turn in calm conditions (relative to other kayaks) is probably the most important factor in how hard it will be to turn in a windstorm.

The most powerful method of turning in strong winds is to get speed up across the wind to take advantage of the weather cocking effect of a hull moving across the wind. Paddle forward to turn the bow into the wind and backward to turn the bow downwind. Use powerful sweep strokes to one side that finish by strongly pulling the stern over. Avoid any reverse or braking strokes on the other side, they will only hinder you.

Surprisingly, a rudder will probably do you more good if lifted into the air for more windage at the stern when turning into a strong wind. If left in the water take care not to angle the rudder too much or the braking effect will actually hinder your ability to turn by slowing your speed, reducing the weathercocking effect. If you are comfortable with the technique, lean the kayak towards the sweep stroke (using a skimming low brace on the return for support). If your not comfortable tilting the kayak until the cockpit is in the water practice it until you are.This tilt should significantly improve (cut nearly in half with the average kayak) your turning speed and therefore your double your ability to turn into a strong wind. One kayaker can help another turn or stay on course in a strong wind by placing their kayak and torso ten to twenty feet upwind to shield the bow or stern half of the other kayak. If the problem is severe a towline (stern to bow) can help both kayaks to turn into the wind and hold a course into it..

UNDERSTAND WAVE HAZARDS
When the wind picks up the waves soon follow. Waves make a capsize more likely and can get you wet from splash or spray. Waves can create difficult control problems and broaching if they are approaching from the side or from the stern quadrants. You should always wear a spray deck. Waves are most difficult when they are steep and have a wavelength roughly the same as your craft. When waves are reflected from a cliff or wall (or are arriving from different directions for any reason) they can create a very steep and confused sea. Large waves meeting from opposite directions can throw water upwards (clapotis) with sufficient force to lift a kayak into the air. Clapotis is most likely next to a wall or cliff that is reflecting waves straight back on themselves. In confused seas care must be taken that your paddle reaches the water. A surprise "air" stroke or brace can throw you off balance. Large waves created by distant storms can be huge but of such long wave length that they will only slowly carry you up and down, causing no real problems unless you are in water shallow enough to cause them to become breakers.

AVOID SURF
The size of surf is difficult to judge from seaward, but you should be able to differentiate the less violent spilling surf from the abrupt dumping surf more likely to damage you or your kayak. A dumping surf on a steep beach can be extremely violent. You should avoid surf if possible. You can often find a much smaller surf, and a place to land in an area protected by a point of land or an island. If landing in surf is a possibility bring a helmet.

Stay well outside the surf line while paddling because larger waves break farther out. This can occur quite intermittently and come as a real surprise. Waves can break in any shallow place, not just near shore. Most rivers and many bays have a sandbar well offshore where breakers form under the right conditions. Be especially careful of a falling tide since the outgoing current will steepen the waves and the water will be getting shallower. Both make the waves more likely to break. Underwater rocks, plateaus, or shallows well offshore can cause intermittent breakers (called boomers) which might not be noticed unless you have been watching far ahead. Other clues to the possibility of boomers include: steepening of the waves, an area of foam, a change in water color, a patch of kelp, or underwater rocks and shallows marked on your chart.

If you capsize and wet exit in the surf near shore, your kayak could be a great danger to you. Swim to one side to get well clear of your kayak, and only then swim for shore. The breakers should deliver your kayak to the beach if you have proper flotation in it. If you can't make progress swimming for shore you may be in a beach rip. A beach rip is formed by the water that builds up behind a sand bar flowing back out to sea in a narrow channel through the bar. Swim to one side before again making for the shore. Continue to angle away from the rip as you approach shore so the lateral currents near shore that feed the rip don’t carry you back into it.

UNDERSTAND TIDE & CURRENTS
Novice paddlers who might be easily intimidated by the large but relatively harmless swell on the open ocean can be lulled into a false sense of security by the apparent calm of inland waters. This might be justified in good weather on a warm lake, but some areas affected by tidal currents can become treacherous. In some locales the effects of tidal currents can intimidate even the best whitewater river paddlers. A calm place can become very rough in a few minutes. Even mild currents can take you well off course. (If possible, line up two distant landmarks with your course and then try to keep them lined up--or look back to check if you are still on a line between your point of origin and your destination.) Currents can significantly slow or stop your progress so plan paddling times to take best advantage of them. If you must paddle against a current you may be able to take advantage of back eddies and the usual slowing of the current in shallows near shore.

Currents can create rough and confused water where they meet. This is called a tide rip. When a current is moving in the opposite direction of the wave motion the wave length is shortened, steepening the waves. A current changing with the tides to run against the wave direction can turn what was a mild sea into a rough one. This combined with shallow water is what makes the bar off of a river or harbor such a dangerous place. Underwater obstructions, headlands, narrows, and shallows can combine with a current to cause waves, eddies, boils, whirlpools, overfalls, and water so agitated that it hisses or gives off a steady roar. Headlands, narrows, and shallows also can increase the speed of the current locally. Your chart will label these areas "tide races". River kayaking experience and skill at bracing can be a great help in dealing with some of the effects of tidal currents.

In some bays and river estuaries where the tidal differences are great and a narrowing channel is present, a tidal bore can form. The tide front is a tumbling wall of water or a high cresting wave that lies across the entire channel and moves inland rapidly with the tide. Large tidal bores (up to 25 feet high on the Amazon) are a rare local phenomenon but they demonstrate the need to get information on local conditions and hazards if you travel to unfamiliar areas.

If you paddle in areas where currents are a factor to consider get the best current tables and current charts you can find and learn how to use them. The "Tidal Current Charts", showing changes on an hour by hour basis using many direction arrows, are far better than most charts for predicting current strength and direction. "Tidal Current Charts" are available through NOAA or chart dealers. They are available for these areas: Boston Harbor, Narragansett Bay to Nantucket Sound, Narragansett Bay, Long Island Sound and Block Island Sound, New York Harbor, Delaware Bay and River, Upper Chesapeake Bay, Charleston Harbor, S.D., Tampa Bay, San Francisco Bay, Puget Sound--North Part, and Puget Sound--South Part.

The book Current Atlas published by The Canadian Hydrographic Service is good resource. It gives hour by hour detailed charts of the speed and direction of the currents in the Straits of Juan de Fuca, San Juan Islands, Gulf Islands, and the Straits of Georgia for three different tidal ranges. With this book, Washburne's tables (or the tide tables for Vancouver, B.C.’s Pt Atkinson) and some knowledge of what causes rough water (currents colliding, wind against the current, headlands and shallows, etc.) many danger areas in this popular paddling region can be spotted in advance on the chart and avoided at the times during the day when they are most dangerous.

Other Tidal Hazards
On an outgoing tide you could become stranded in tidal basins with wide areas of muddy shallows such as often occur where a river enters a bay. A long shallow beach could mean a long carry to a resting or camping place at low tide. Also on this shallow type beach the tide comes in very rapidly so you must be especially careful not to leave your kayak unsecured for even a few minutes or it could float away. Carry your kayak and equipment well above high tide line and then tie it to a fixed object in case you misjudged the tide.

WATCH OUT FOR OTHER CRAFT
Ships are deceptively fast. Never try to paddle across the path of a ship. Busy shipping lanes if crossed at all should be crossed at an angle nearly perpendicular to minimize the time in them. Groups should stay close together in order to make it easier for a large craft to notice them and avoid them. While assuming that ships, speedboats, and sailboats won't see you, give them every chance. Make yourself visible: bright colors on the kayak, spray deck, life jacket and hat all help, but the most visible thing from speedboat eye level will probably be your paddle blades waving up and down. Paddle blades that are a light bright color such as yellow, orange, pink, light blue or white will probably be your best warning. Try to avoid being in the path of any larger craft. While you may legally have the right of way, to take it is foolhardy. Wait and cross behind power or sailboats unless there is no possible way they could reach you. Make sure tugboats do not have something in tow before crossing behind them.

BE PREPARED FOR FOG
There are no landmarks in a thick fog, only a small circle of sea inside a luminous dome with you at the center. Without a compass or some means of judging direction, such as wave angle or a distant repeating sound, you will paddle in circles. However, wave direction can be altered close to shore or behind an island due to refraction or if the waves are small by a change in the wind. Also, that distant repeating sound could be a moving ship. In fog you will need a compass (or a GPS). In fact you can become so disoriented that you may need two compasses pointing the same direction to assure you that the first one is not broken. Groups should stay very close together since separation is a constant possibility in thick fog.

Paddling in thick fog can be dangerous because its much more difficult to see or even hear hazards until you are very near it. Also, your judgement of size and distance is distorted by fog. In some areas shipping is a hazard in fog. It would be prudent not to cross even seldom used shipping lanes in fog, mist, or rain that limits your vision. Even if you have a radar reflector held high above the kayak the "noise" caused by the mist or rain will probably blot out your echo on the radar screen. In a fog a moving ship is required to sound one prolonged (4 to 6 seconds) blast on its foghorn at least every two minutes. A ship at rest will sound two prolonged blasts in close succession. If possible answer a moving ship with one prolonged and two short blasts. This means, "I can only maneuver with great difficulty."

If your destination in fog is an island you must also plan what you will do if you miss it. In addition to a compass you will need a watch, a good idea of your paddling speed, and the effects of wind and currents so you will know when to implement your alternate plan or make a required course change. If your destination is on a long shoreline you can navigate to intentionally miss your goal somewhat to one side so you will know which way to turn to find it when you reach the shoreline. If possible avoid paddling out of sight of the shore in a fog.

Inland paddlers who have grown up in areas where radiation fog that forms over land in the morning is common, associate fog with lack of wind. Sea fog which is found over water in coastal areas during the summer is different. It forms when winds up to 25 mph bring warm air over colder sea water and once formed can persist even during much higher winds.

SPECIAL LOCALIZED HAZARDS
We have listed many of the hazards that might be encountered in the Pacific Northwest and British Columbia, Canada. Other parts of the world have their own hazards many of which will be different from those encountered in this area. For instance, in the tropics hypothermia is not likely to be a problem but sunstroke, coral reefs, sea snakes, crocodiles, and sharks might be. In the arctic a paddler may have to deal with icebergs, sea ice, calving glaciers, frigid water, and the more likely occurrence of katabatic (gravity powered) winds.

Find out about local hazards while planning a trip to a distant location. If you can, talk to local kayakers, fishermen, or others who live, play, or work where you will be paddling.

ANIMAL HAZARDS
Most sea mammals are not a threat to a kayaker if they are left alone. Exceptions might be Polar Bear, Walrus, and territorial bull Elephant Seals and Sea Lions at rookeries. You will be happy to hear that unprovoked Shark attacks are rare north of the 42nd parallel (California/Oregon border) and are rare in any waters less than 68` Fahrenheit (20` C.) (but maybe the reason is less people are in the colder water so the sharks have less opportunity). If you are going to be in unfamiliar territory check with the locals about potential hazards and animal pests. On land, in North America at least, bears seem the only major threat. Bears are especially dangerous in parks where they are protected from hunting, and therefore have little fear of man. Many may even have developed a taste for campers food. Keep food and the smell of food away from your sleeping area and wash up before retiring. In Grizzly country it is recommended you cook below the high tide line if possible. Hang your food out of reach of a bear and well away from your tents. Camping on a small island may lessen bear hazards (as well as mosquitoes), but bring plenty of water and still maintain the above precautions, bears are good swimmers.

PARALYTIC SHELLFISH POISONING (P.S.P.)
Sometimes in the summer and fall filter feeding shellfish eat a lot of a certain type of microorganism store and concentrate the nerve poison it contains. A person eating the contaminated bivalves (clams, oysters, mussels, and scallops) is then poisoned. Some of these shellfish, such as butter clams, store the poison for years. A tingling or numbness of the lips and tongue is usually the first symptom. Soon this spreads to the fingers and toes. In severe cases this progresses to difficult breathing, loss of coordination, and death due to the paralysis of the breathing muscles. P.S.P. or "Red Tide" warnings are often posted at access points in contaminated areas. There are no other clues to contamination and detecting the poison in shellfish is a very complicated process ending with how long it takes a rat injected with the concentrated poison to die. Those who think they can tell by the months of the year, color of the water, or apparent health of the clams are fooling themselves and have been lucky. Always check with the authorities. At the first sign of P.S.P. poisoning induce vomiting, take a strong laxative, drink a solution containing baking soda or baking powder and get medical attention as soon as possible. If breathing stops begin CPR immediately and don't stop until recovery of the victim (which could take a day or more).

BEWARE OF RIVER HAZARDS
Since a sea kayak is right at home on unobstructed rivers that don't require the maneuverability of a whitewater kayak, we should mention the most dangerous moving water hazards. Stay out of reversals (the white water behind an underwater rock or dam). Stay well away from "strainers" (log jams, fallen trees, or brush) which can pin you underwater, even in a mild current. Although the temptation is strong to stand up if you are swimming you must always swim with your feet at the surface even in a shallow current. If you do not your body could be hooked by a underwater branch or log or your feet could get caught between two rocks. In either case very little current is required to pull you under and hold you there. Wear a helmet on all but the most sluggish rivers.

CONCLUSION
This was not meant to be a compete how-to guide to sea kayaking, just a fairly extensive list of some hazards and safety information that we as manufacturers of the equipment you may be using would like you to understand.

by Matt Broze
Mariner Kayaks